Don’t listen to those who argue that most alarms and security systems are a waste of money. The more steps you take to protect your bike, the less of an attractive target you become and the less chance of your bike becoming just another crime statistic for central London.

Security products chosen should be high quality and installed correctly. Many DIY jobs are what makes an immobiliser or alarm fail to function in the right way, making their owners believe them to be pointless. Always have motorcycle alarms and immobilisers fitted by a specialist. Invest in the best security you can afford. Police recommendations state that you should spend 10-15% of the bike’s value on protecting it. This is normally not feasible, but it gives you a good indication of how seriously you should be taking your bike’s security. It might be worth having a chat with your insurance company to see what security measures are necessary for your policy to be valid.

It’s no good having a super expensive lock if you then fail to secure your bike to something heavy and solid. A chain and padlock will do nothing if the bike isn’t weighed down by an object. A thief will simply lift the bike and disappear into the night with it. This applies to storing your bike at home and when you’re out and about. When out riding with friends, lock all your bikes together, which makes one bike a ground anchor for the next etc.

Applying the Onion Principle

When thinking of the best possible security measures for your machine, approach the problem like it’s the layers of an onion! When using one product, the thief just needs to get past one layer to steal your beloved bike. Using another product increases the amount of time the thief is now trying to crack your bike. The more layers you add, the less likely it is that a thief will have the patience or time to keep at it. The layers could consist of any of the following: 

• Insurance Approved Alarms and/or Immobilisers
• Shackle Locks
• Cable Locks
• Identification and Marking Systems
• Covers
• Location Trackers
• DIY Alarm and Immobiliser Systems
• Ground Anchors
• Padlocks and Chains
• Disc Locks
• Additional garage shed and outbuilding security

It’s important to have a plan about what you’re going to use at home and when you’re out and about. Depending on your budget, bike type, use and storage location – you’ll want to adapt the onion principle to suit your security needs.

• 50cc – These scooters tend to have a max speed of between 35-40 miles per hour depending on rider weight. For urban commutes, where you won’t be on roads faster than 40 mph, a 50cc will give you the best fuel economy.
• 150cc – These will take you a bit faster, at between 50 and 60 miles per hour. If you plan on travelling on faster roads at all, a 150cc will suit your needs better than a 50cc. For most riders, a 150cc fits the bill adequately and with approximately 70mpg, it’s kind on the wallet too.
• 250cc – With a top speed of 75 miles per hour, this is the best option for those needing to travel on the motorway. Heavier riders may also prefer an engine with a bit more oomph. The only downside is that the mpg drops to around 60 with the 250cc.

Which model should you choose:

Now you’ve got a better idea of the speed of each engine size, you’ll know which models to concentrate on in your search. You’ll also want to consider factors like your style, which also means how you drive and not just your favourite colour.

For the majority of enthusiasts, only the Italian Vespa will suffice. For the iconic style and continental flair, the Mod history and associated culture – most choose a Vespa. For better fuel economy and a lower price tag, many manufacturers now produce scooters in the Italian retro style in all engine sizes. Important questions you need to ask include: Would you rather go faster or save on fuel? With fuel prices on the rise again, you might well decide that economy beats speed in a sensible world. You’ll also want to factor in maintenance and servicing at a scooter and classic motorcycle repairs specialist.

If you’re looking at a 250cc engine size, you’ll also need to factor in your driving style. When you choose a bigger engine, you can have it timed to produce different levels of performance. For example, with a single rider, a racing model could reach speeds of 85mph but struggle to pull away from a standing start with a passenger on it. A touring model can easily pull away with 2 people on it but only has a maximum speed of 75mph with a lone rider. Some scooters will also come with a whole range of mod cons, from mp3 players to anti-lock brakes which will also affect the price tag.

When shopping for your next scooter, consider the following points:

• Carefully choose the engine size to suit the speed you want and the fuel mileage you desire.
• Pick an engine size that will reflect your personal driving style and habits.

Prep

Remember to remove anything you don’t want to get soaking wet, such as tank bags and GPS, for example. Get all your bits together – you’ll need a bucket, liquid detergent, degreaser, bug remover, some lubricant, a toothbrush (preferably an old one and not your partner’s) a brush, tyre cleaner, paint and metal polish, microfibre cloths and a chamois. Don’t be tempted to jump straight off and start cleaning. Let your bike cool down first, especially after a long ride.

Wash often but not too much

This is a tricky one to get right. You want to do it frequently enough, so you notice problems early on and keep your machine in the best possible condition, but too much and you can wash away useful lubricants. Consider what kind of a ride you’ve just had and whether a full-on wash is required or perhaps just a gentle wipe down. If you notice a problem during your washing routine, you’ll be thinking – where do I find a motorbike repair shop near me?

A little water and the right cleaning fluid

You don’t want to use too much water and make sure you have the correct cleaning fluid for the job. Ideally, you want a cleaning agent specific for the purpose and don’t use all-purpose general household cleaners or anything abrasive. The perfect cleaner will have a neutral pH balance so as not to damage paint work. Beware that vinyl cleaners will buff up your seat nicely but make it slippery!

To high-pressure clean or not?

If your pride and joy is covered in hard caked on mud, a high-pressure wash can be highly effective. However, water at a high force can intrude into electrics and places you really don’t it to pool as it could cause corrosion. If you want to pressure wash your bike, be sure to keep it away from electronics, the brakes and the chain. Don’t use a pressure washer over 2000 psi and beware, you can rip vinyl seats with a high-pressure wash.

Separate rags and sponges

Try to have a different pile of rags, cloths, sponges and brushes for different areas of your bike to avoid smearing grease on places you don’t want to. Microfibre cloths are great for being gentle on a variety of surfaces. An old toothbrush is handy for removing grime from small, hard to reach crevices. For burnt-on grease and dirt on chrome exhaust pipes, some fine-grade steel wool should do the trick.

 Wax on, wax off

Be sure you’re using the right wax for your bike. Some modern bikes have a layer of lacquer or plastic which is susceptible to damage. Always use a soft wax, if you’re using car wax on your machine. If you’re not sure, test a small patch on an unseen area first, then look at it in direct sunlight to see if it leaves swirls behind. Place the wax on a cloth, not directly onto your bodywork. Once it’s dry, buff it off with a cloth that doesn’t leave lint behind!

Build up gradually

Someone who’s never ridden before, jumping on a superbike is likely to kill them. Before even entertaining the idea of owning such a bike, you’ll need to hone your riding skills on lesser beasts first. Get plenty of experience on bikes with smaller engine capacities or a more forgiving ride. Riding any motorbike takes confidence, skill and focus but you can double this for riding a superbike.

Easy Rider

You need to think smooth, easy like Sunday morning when dealing with the power and sensitivity of a superbike. You need to be gentle on the throttle and the brakes, caressing your machine though gear shifts, like a living, breathing steed who could buck at any moment. A smooth approach will allow weight to shift predictably and avoid the potential for skidding and bucking.  

The Best Riding Gear

If only the best bike will do, then apply the same philosophy to your riding gear. You must have top-grade protection, no matter what you’re riding. Riding at faster superbike speeds can also see grit and dirt flicking up from road surfaces, so be sure you have good eye protection.

Aerodynamics

If you want to sit upright, buy a tourer. A superbike is designed for speed and aerodynamics with a low centre of gravity and a bent-over riding position. Windshields are low to prevent drag, but this does mean you’ll be bent over to avoid the buffeting effect.

Regular Servicing

If you want optimum performance, visual beauty and ultimate safety, you’ll be sensible and have regular servicing carried out. The main parts, such as chains, tyres and brakes should all be checked to identify potential problems early on. This could save you costly repairs further down the line or even save your life. Also get into the habit of carrying out quick pre-ride checks before heading out, your life could depend on it. Always take your bike to a specialist local motorcycle repairs.

Understand your limits

Human nature can hardly resist pushing machines to their limits to see what they’re fully capable of. Having a superbike is taking this temptation, tying it with a bow and saying Happy Birthday and Merry Christmas all at once. Be sure that a superbike will always outperform its rider so always stay within your comfort zone. Always ride for yourself, within your limits and never be tempted to play catch up with mates or the pressure and lack of focus could have tragic consequences.

Keeping it clean

You’ll want to give your scooter a good once over regularly and this is also a great way to check for debris and dust build-up. Always use an appropriate cleaner like a gel cleaner which won’t immediately run off. Soft, micro fibre cloths are best for not leaving lint behind or being too abrasive. At least once a week when the scooter is in regular use is a good rule of thumb for a wipe down. Avoid cleaning in direct sunlight or using a high-pressure washer, as this can blast away all the good grease and lubricant in wheels and steering head bearings for example.

Keep it shady

It’s best to keep your scooter stored somewhere that’s away from excessive moisture, direct sunlight or dust. Parking in shady spots is a good way to avoid extremes in temperature and rain which over time can damage the bodywork. A waterproof cover is great to use when the scooter isn’t in use.

Keep it safe

Protect your investment with a cover, chains and locks. Motorcycle theft is high, so you might want to consider additional security devices such as alarms, immobilisers and motorcycle trackers.

Tyres

To give your tyres a longer life, be sure to regularly check the air pressure on your tyres. The wrong air pressure can put additional, unwanted pressure on your scooter each time you use it. It will cause an increase in friction between the road surface and the tyre, making it deflate quicker. This is particularly the case with pneumatic tyres. Always make sure you have the optimum air pressure as recommended by your manufacturer.

Oil Change

To get the most out of your riding experience, you’ll want to change the oil frequently. If you’re riding a new scooter, it is recommended that oil be changed within the first 300-500 miles. After that, an oil change every 1000 miles is recommended for optimum performance.

Carburettor

Having a clean carburettor is essential as this is the part responsible for pumping the fuel and taking in the correct amount of air needed. There are multiple small openings, diaphragms and vents that easily become dirty and grimy. It will need to be cleaned carefully and any adjustments required should be done by a professional.

Regular Checks

Following the above advice will give you a well-maintained and cared for scooter but should not replace a six-monthly or yearly inspection and servicing by a professional motorcycle garage. This can often reveal small issues that you hadn’t noticed which if left, could turn into something major and costly further down the line.

Sadly, more than 14,000 two-wheeled vehicles were stolen in the last year in London alone. It only takes a couple of seconds for a thief to make off with your much-loved vehicle if it’s not secured properly. Advice from the Met Police says ‘lock, chain and cover’ to make your bike invisible to potential thieves.

Lock

One type of lock is a disc lock, which will fasten to the front brake disc. Another option is the grip lock, that can be used to secure both the brake and throttle. You can also apply a d-lock to the wheel at the front to help prevent it from being wheeled off.  

Chain

Steering locks can be broken, with thieves simply walking the bike away. Using a chain lock through the back wheel is a good idea as the front wheel can be removed by thieves. The lock must be secured to a heavy and immovable object, like a ground anchor or lamppost. If this isn’t feasible, lace the chain through both the bike’s frame and the back wheel.

Cover

Don’t make your bike obvious to passer’s by. If a thief is on the lookout for a specific model, don’t make it easy for them to spot yours by using a cover. Removing a cover to see what’s underneath is both noisy and time-consuming, two obstacles a thief doesn’t want to deal with. Whilst you can never 100% guarantee the safety of your bike, by using multiple methods you can decrease the likelihood of it happening to you.

Don’t leave the keys

Most thefts are opportune strikes with thieves looking for easy and quick targets. Ensure you always apply the steering lock and remove the keys, even if you only intend to be away from the bike for a few seconds. A steering lock on its own is not enough to secure your bike.

Alarms

Alarms on their own might not prevent a theft but they certainly make a good deterrent. Ideally, you’ll want to fit a 1 or 2 rated Thatcham system that comes with immobilisation, tracking and movement sensors to trace your bike. An added incentive is that it could bring down your insurance payments. A local motorcycle service can advise you on the fitting of security alarms.

Mark your bike

A marked bike is a much less attractive prospect to thieves, as it’s too difficult to sell on the parts. In the event your bike is stolen, property marking also makes it easier for the police to identify the owner.

Where to store your bike at home

The best place to store your vehicle safely is in a garage, shed or other secure outbuilding. Make sure your garage has strong, fully functional locking devices. You could also consider fitting alarms to outbuildings as well as locks. Outside sensor lighting through the night is another security feature to add into the mix. If you don’t have a suitable outside building to store your bike, invest in a cover and ground anchor or a purpose-built motorcycle locker for storing at home.

The Pros

• Protect your fairings – Crash bungs stick out far enough so that when your bike is on its side, only the pegs, wheels, protector and bar end should be in contact with the ground. If your bike does go down, your fairings will hopefully remain undamaged. Fairings are not inexpensive so for the small cost of some bungs, you could be saving hundreds in scratched up fairings.
• Rescue your engine casing – Bungs also prevent the engine case from hitting the deck which is worth its weight in gold as a broken engine casing most definitely means the end of your ride that day.
• Light crashes will go unnoticed – When you have a minor incident, you should be left with next to no damage at all. In theory, you should be able to pick up your bike, get back on and carry on as if nothing happened. If you do decide you want crash bungs, it’s imperative to choose high quality bungs with a reputation for excellent performance. Make sure they are fitted in exactly the right position and have it done professionally at a London motorcycle repair centre.

The Cons

• High speed flipping issues – Now, if you’re travelling at considerable speed, not even crash bungs can prevent all damage. At very high speed, there is the possibility of a bung catching a kerb or sticking in the mud and flipping the bike over. Once a flip starts, all manner of damage can result. However, bikes flip without bungs, so this shouldn’t necessarily put you off.
• Damaging the engine thread and bolt – If your bike drops with enough force, it could result in the bungs being ripped straight out of their fixings. This could mean increased repair costs, getting your engine mount rethreaded and sorting out frame damage.
• Ineffective in gravel or soft ground – Crash bungs will do little for a dropped bike on gravel or slidy soft grass or mud.

For most riders, crash protection offers a good investment against costly damage caused by accidents or a dropped bike. However, in the randomness of life, there are no guarantees a bike is going to down in a certain way and there are many variables involved.

CBR900RR Fireblade

The stunning Fireblade is one of the most successful sportsbikes ever. This beast of a bike has been right at the top or gunning for it in most bike tests and has enjoyed excellent sales. This bike is a real icon and the CBR900RR was the second generation Fireblade, even more of an improvement on the original ‘Blade.

Released in 1996, the second-gen ‘Blade had updated bodywork, a 918cc engine, higher bars and a stainless-steel exhaust. It enjoyed great sales, was well-constructed and quick to steer. It’s comfortable and spacious for a sportsbike, still of the analogue era so easier to work on, fuel efficient and really cheap to pick up second-hand. It suffered when the R1 was released but was still a great buy and with 122bhp, had enough zip to satisfy most riders.

Superhawk

At the time, the Superhawk represented cutting-edge technology that made this bike cheaper to manufacture and incredibly light in weight. This was the beginning of a new generation of motorbikes. If you’ve ever read the biker’s Bible ‘Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance’ then you’ll recognise the Superhawk as Robert Pirsig’s bike of choice for his philosophical road trip.

Gold Wing

For those riders who wanted comfort and something different from other rides, the Gold Wing was the bike of choice. Many classic Gold Wing’s are lovingly restored and wheeled out on sunny Bank Holidays around the UK still. Visit specialist Honda motorcycle repairs for your classic Honda needs. The Gold Wing has gone through many developments since its conception and now offers all the latest technology for an even more comfortable ride.

CB750

Many Honda enthusiasts consider this model to the birth of the superbike. The CB750 was a stunning work of art and Honda’s attempt to break into the U.S market. It was powerful, good-looking and made just the right impact that Honda desired.

The Hurricane (CBR600F)

Rather unfairly known as the ‘poor man’s racer’, the Hurricane was a sports bike with plastic trims. It was cheap and affordable, but it gave those who couldn’t have otherwise had a fast bike, a chance to feel the need for speed. The bike has seen great technological improvements throughout its generations.  

The Rune

Every vehicle manufacturer has to have one crazy design to get everyone talking and for Honda, it was the Rune.  Big, bossy and a little bit ‘out there’, Honda actually sold three times more units than they had anticipated. The bike sat low to the ground and consisted of more than 2m of length to manoeuvre!

Piaggio – Vespa Elettrica

The original scooter maker Vespa, nearly 70 years after the launch of its iconic machine, have decided to release an electric scooter. For the ultimate in environmental-friendliness, this scooter offers both a touch of luxury and a four-hour charge time. The maximum range is 100km, more than enough to have you nipping through inner city and urban streets on your daily commute. The power unit has 2kW, peaking at 4kW from a lithium-ion battery that recharges during deceleration, known as a Kinetic Energy Recovery System.

It comes with an impressive multimedia set-up that connects to your smartphone and runs with hardly even a murmur. As well as the obvious emission benefits, the company are praising the scooter’s quietness in helping to reduce noise pollution in cities. Finished in chrome-grey, it’s also available in a hybrid model consisting of a petrol generator with an electric motor. This kicks in when the battery charge gets a little on the low side, effectively doubling the range to 200km.

Zero Motorcycles

Zero Motorcycles company have been producing electric bikes for over a decade, so have certainly mastered their craft. The DSR bike is suitable for different terrains and is surprisingly speedy, going from 0-100 kph in just under 4 seconds. With a top speed of just shy of 160 kph and a 60hp lithium-ion power unit, you get 110Nm of torque! Not bad for an electric bike. For all info, repairs and maintenance, find a professional London scooter repairs shop.

The DSR provides a solid 230 city kilometres before recharging. This can even be boosted by an additional 60km with the purchase of an extra power pack. A full charge costs around £1 and takes only 2.6 hours.

Suitable for all kinds of terrain, the DSR can easily shift to adapt to different surfaces with a simple app. The Zero app allows the rider to pre-programme modes, such as Eco and Sports. The app also provides detailed riding statistics and receives automatic performance updates, downloaded straight from your smartphone to your bike.

BMW HP4 Race

BMW has so far only made 750 of these and it is the world’s first bike offering a completely carbon-made wheels and frame, providing the smoothest ride imaginable and maximum torsion. It is unique in that the whole bike is made in one piece as a single component. With a dome-shaped windscreen, the ride feels even more stream-lined and you’ll find a 2-dimensial dashboard display. The engine offers just under 160kW with a max torque of 120Nm. The HP4 Race comes in the HP motorsport colours of metallic blue, racing red and white.

Have a service

This should be a regular part of your maintenance routine but is more important before you take your bike abroad. This ensures everything is operating smoothly and you’re less likely to suffer an annoying, inconvenient and costly breakdown in a different country. Visit a motorcycle or scooter specialist in London for servicing of all makes and models of motorbike.

Insurance

Be sure to check with your insurers that you have cover for accidents and theft while you’re abroad. This is not something you want to find out after the fact, so make sure you’ve got cover before you leave.

Driving licence

This is one document you don’t want to forget and keep it on you at all times. Also remember to check that any breakdown cover you have in place also covers you for being abroad. If anything happens, you want to be confident you’ll be able to get your bike back to the UK. Take your driving licence and keep it on your person at all times.

Passport

You will need to carry your passport with you if you intend to tour anywhere in Europe. EU countries also insist that travellers driving abroad carry their original V5 document with you. Travelling in France especially, the police can detain you if you cannot prove ownership of your bike.

EHIC form

In the unfortunate event that you require any form of medical assistance, you’ll need to have an EHIC card.

GB Sticker

Touring in Europe means you must display a GB sticker unless you have a more recent number plate that displays the EU mark. This are accepted in place of a GB sticker.

Useful Spares

Spare bulbs don’t take up much luggage room but can be a life saver. They can be the difference between travelling safely at night or being stuck in the dark in the middle of nowhere. Other useful spares include a spare set of keys and an additional immobiliser remote.

Tools

A small, portable tool kit can be a life-saver, as well as items like pack fuses, puncture repair kits, a warning triangle, spare engine oil, insulation tape and cable ties. You might want to pack some earplugs too, especially for long periods on the road. Hi vis vests or helmet stripes are also a great idea for travelling in low level light conditions.

Continental adapter

You’ll curse yourself if you forget one or two of these in your luggage. If you want any electrical items to work, including the ability to charge your mobile phone – then you’ll need at least a couple of these adapters for your travels.